Tricolor Hognose Care Guide

The “Tricolor Hognose” (sometimes called “Tri-color hog” in the hobby) is prized for its striking red, black, and white/orange banding or patterning. Depending on the morph/line, care overlaps with Western Hognose, but there are subtle differences in humidity, dietary preferences, and temperature tolerances. Some hobbyists report they can be pickier eaters or more sensitive to husbandry missteps.

Housing

A secure, front-opening enclosure is ideal. Many keepers recommend a footprint of 30″ long × 12″ wide × 12″ high as an absolute minimum, though a larger size such as 36″ × 18″ × 16″ is safer for adult specimens. ReptileSupply.com Cohabitation is not advised; even during breeding, introductions should be supervised and limited. ReptileSupply.com+1

Because tricolors are often more demanding, offering deeper, burrowable substrate, good hiding places, and a controlled microclimate makes a big difference in stress and feeding behavior.

If you use a rack system, ensure ventilation, depth for digging, a thermal gradient, and enrichment (tunnels, covered areas) so the snake doesn’t feel “boxed in.”

Substrate

Tricolor hognoses are fossorial, meaning they like to burrow and hide under substrate. Recommended substrates include:

• Aspen bedding

• Exo Terra Plantation Soil

• Eco Earth / coconut fiber mix

• ReptiSoil or similar reptile soil blends

Depth should be at least 3 inches (7–8 cm) to allow burrowing.

Spot cleaning daily and full substrate replacement every 3–4 months is typical.

In very dry environments, some keepers moisten part of the substrate (especially on the cool side) so the snake can burrow into a damp layer if desired.

Heating & Temperature

Tricolor hognoses benefit from a clear thermal gradient:

• Basking / hot area (surface temperature): ~ 90–95 °F (32–35 °C)
  
  

• Cool side ambient: ~ 72–82 °F (22–28 °C)
  
  

• At night, temps may drop modestly but should usually stay in the 68–75 °F range
  
  

The heat source may be a halogen heat lamp or a basking lamp over a flat rock or tile. Use a dimmer or thermostat control to avoid overheating. 

Some care sheets discourage the use of ceramic heat emitters (CHE) or red/blue bulbs for tricolors, preferring visible light sources (halogen) combined with belly heat as needed. 

You can run an under-tank heat mat as a supplemental heat source, particularly under the warm side, though care must be taken not to overheat substrate layers. 

Use an infrared surface thermometer (temp gun) to verify heat at the snake level—not just at the top of the tank.

Lighting & UVB

While tricolor hognoses can survive without UVB, providing a low-level UVB setup (e.g. 5–6% or forest/woodland style UVB) is considered beneficial by many keepers. UVB can encourage better appetite, activity, and general health. Ensure shaded refuges so the snake can avoid exposure if desired. 

Replace UVB bulbs annually, even if they appear to work, because UV output decays.

Maintain a day/night cycle (e.g. 12–14 hours of light) to support circadian rhythms.

Hides, Enrichment & Microclimate

Offer at least:

• One warm hide (on or near the hot side)

• One cool side hid

• One humid hide (with damp substrate or moss) for shedding

Add tunnels, half logs, cork flats, leaf litter, or artificial vegetation to create cover and complexity. These enrichments reduce stress and give the snake safe pathways. 

Some keepers also partially bury hides or décor to allow “underground” sheltering. Given their digging behavior, this helps them feel secure.

Humidity & Shedding

Air humidity should be maintained in the low to moderate range — around 30–50% average. The humid hide should be moistened to ~70–80% inside, giving the snake a wet retreat when needed.

Because many tricolor keepers come from dry climates, providing a slightly moister burrow zone can help with shedding success. Some reports suggest slightly more humidity than Western hogs in localized areas.

During shed cycles, watch for retained skin on the eyes, tail tip, or body folds. If necessary, give a brief lukewarm soak and gently assist with a damp cotton swab.

Diet & Feeding

Tricolor hognoses in the wild may consume amphibians, lizards, and reptile eggs in addition to rodents. In captivity:

• Juveniles: feed every 5–7 days

• Adults: feed every 10–14 days

Prey size: roughly the girth of the snake’s widest point. Use frozen/thawed first, warmed to room temperature. Live prey carries risks and should be used cautiously.

Because of their wild diet habits, some keepers introduce Reptilinks (frog/lizard meat products) or egg offerings/eggs occasionally to mimic natural diversity — but many caution against overreliance, as rodents remain essential.

Be careful not to overfeed. Some hobbyists note tricolor hogs are more reluctant to swallow large prey than Western hognoses, so smaller meals may reduce feeding refusal.

Always keep fresh, clean, dechlorinated water available (a bowl large enough to partly soak is good). 

Handling & Behavior

Tricolor hognoses can become reasonably tolerant of handling when socialized, though individual temperament varies. Use gentle, confident handling, supporting the body and avoiding sudden movement.

Because they are rear-fanged, a defensive bite is possible. Do not allow the snake to bite and “chew”—that prolongs venom exposure. Gloves or tongs may be used if you’re concerned.

They are known for bluff displays: flattening the neck, hissing, mock striking, and sometimes rolling over than playing dead. Many tricolor hognose keepers report that their snakes do not play dead but instead use tail vibration or substrate rattling for intimidation.

Health & Monitoring

Watch for signs of:

• Refusal to feed over extended periods

• Weight loss

• Stuck shed (skin on eyes, tail tip, scales)

• Mouth or respiratory issues (wheezing, bubbles)

• Parasites

Keep up with husbandry checks (substrate condition, humidity, temperature). If issues persist, consult a reptile-savvy veterinarian, especially given the relative scarcity of published data for some tricolor lines.

Breeding

Breeding tricolor hognoses is more advanced and less frequently documented in hobby literature, but many breeders have success using protocols similar to other hognoses — with some caveats.

• Ensure both male and female are fully mature, healthy, and of good body weight

• A cooling/brumation period may stimulate breeding (many breeders cool adults for several weeks)

• Introduce male to female’s enclosure under supervision; remove male after successful copulation

• Provide a nest box with moist, stable medium (vermiculite mix, coconut fiber, etc.)

• Tricolor females may lay multiple clutches in one season (some reports of ladies laying clutches ~ every 40 days) 

• Eggs may appear infertile early (low veining under candling) and begin showing veining after a couple of weeks 

• Incubation at ~78 °F may yield ~90 days to hatch (depending on moisture, temperature)

• Hatchlings should be kept separately, with shallow substrate, tight hides, and small prey items

• Some breeders caution that tricolors are short-lived compared to other hogs (perhaps due to high reproductive investment) 

Because tricolors vary in genetics and lineage, record your pairings and outcomes carefully (clutch size, viability, growth) so you can refine your approach.

Quick Reference for Tricolor Hognose

• Enclosure: ≥30″ × 12″ × 12″ footprint (36″ × 18″ × 16″ preferred)

• Substrate: loose digging material (aspen, soil mixes, coconut fiber) at least 3″ deep

• Heat: surface 90–95 °F, cool side ~72–82 °F, nighttime ~68–75 °F

• Lighting: optional UVB (low level) + consistent day/night cycle

• Hides: warm, cool, humid + tunneling opportunities

• Humidity: ambient ~30–50%; humid hide ~70–80%

• Diet: rodents as staple, occasional amphibian/lizard or egg items (carefully)

• Water: always available, fresh, dechlorinated

• Handling: gentle, supportive; be mindful of rear-fang potential

• Breeding: cool/brumate, supervised pairings, moist nest box, hatch ~90 days, multiple clutches possible