Leopard Gecko Care Guide

Eublepharis macularius

The Leopard Gecko is one of the most well-loved reptiles in the hobby. Native to the rocky deserts of Pakistan, Afghanistan, and parts of India, these hardy lizards are known for their calm temperament, unique eyelids, and endless variety of colors and patterns. They’re easy to care for, friendly when handled properly, and make wonderful pets for both beginners and experienced keepers.

Housing

A single adult can live comfortably in a 20-gallon long terrarium or equivalent-sized PVC enclosure. If you’re keeping multiple females, a larger space like a 40-gallon works best, with plenty of hides and food dishes to prevent competition. Males should never live together — they’re territorial and will fight. Housing a male and female together long-term isn’t recommended either, as constant breeding attempts can cause severe stress or even injury to the female.

For enclosures, there are three main styles that all work when done correctly: rack systems, traditional terrariums, and bioactive setups.

Rack Systems

Rack systems are often used by breeders because they save space, maintain heat easily, and allow quick daily checks. Each tub should have a heat source underneath about one-third of the enclosure, controlled by a thermostat to keep the warm area around 90 to 93°F. Even in a rack, geckos need at least three hides — a warm, cool, and moist hide — and good ventilation holes or mesh sides to prevent stagnant air. Paper towels or tiles are the easiest substrates here. Racks are great for maintaining multiple animals, but they don’t provide as much enrichment or visibility as a terrarium.

Traditional Enclosures

A standard glass or PVC terrarium is perfect for most keepers. It allows you to create a more natural layout while still being easy to clean. Use a secure screen lid and make sure the enclosure has good ventilation. Place a heating pad under one side, set to 90–93°F, leaving the other side cooler (around 75°F). Always use a thermostat and check temperatures with a digital thermometer or temp gun.

Geckos need three essential hides — one on the warm side, one on the cool side, and a moist hide filled with damp sphagnum moss or coconut fiber. The moist hide is especially important during shedding.

Lighting isn’t strictly necessary, but many modern keepers provide low-level UVB (UVI 0.5–1.0). It helps with vitamin D synthesis and overall health, especially for long-term setups. Just be sure your UVB is the correct strength and distance from the basking area.

Bioactive Enclosures

Bioactive setups mimic natural ecosystems with live plants, soil, and cleanup crews like isopods and springtails. Once established, they’re self-sustaining and look beautiful. The substrate should be a mix of organic topsoil and sand (about 60/40), deep enough for burrowing. Add leaf litter, bark, and décor to create microclimates. A drainage layer with clay balls or gravel at the bottom helps prevent soggy soil. Let the enclosure “cycle” for a few weeks before adding your gecko so the microfauna can stabilize.

Arid-tolerant plants like haworthia, small aloes, and sansevieria do well, especially with gentle LED grow lights. A bioactive setup takes more patience to establish, but once mature, it provides a rich, natural home that encourages natural behaviors.

Substrate

Safe choices include paper towels, newspaper, tiles, or reptile carpet for easy cleaning. Avoid sand, calcium sand, or crushed walnut shells — these can cause impaction if swallowed. In a naturalistic or bioactive setup, a soil and sand mix works well, provided it’s chemical-free and has the right texture. Loose substrate should only be used in larger tanks where digestion temperatures and feeding practices are carefully managed.

Heating and Temperature

Leopard Geckos are ectothermic and depend on external heat for digestion. They need belly heat rather than basking lamps, so use an under-tank heater regulated by a thermostat. Keep the warm side at about 90–93°F and the cool side around 75°F. Nighttime temperatures can drop to the mid-60s safely. A temperature gun is the best way to check surface temps. Never rely on stick-on thermometers — they aren’t accurate enough.

Lighting

Although Leopard Geckos don’t require UVB to survive, low-level UVB lighting is now widely encouraged. It supports bone health, hormone regulation, and overall activity. Use a low-output UVB bulb like an Arcadia ShadeDweller or Zoo Med 5.0, mounted 10–14 inches above the basking area. Provide a 12-hour light cycle to mimic day and night, even if you use ambient room light instead of UVB.

Hides and Enrichment

Leopard Geckos feel safest when they have places to hide. A proper setup includes a warm hide, a cool hide, and a moist hide. The moist hide helps with shedding and hydration and can be made from a Tupperware container or cave filled with damp moss or paper towels. You can also add décor like logs, caves, rocks, and plants to create visual barriers and allow exploration.

Humidity and Shedding

Keep general humidity around 30–40%, similar to desert conditions. The moist hide should be humid (around 70–80%). During shedding, you may notice your gecko spending extra time there. If any skin remains on the toes or tail, soak your gecko in shallow lukewarm water for about 10 minutes and gently rub the area with a damp cotton swab. Stuck shed can cut off circulation, so always check after each shed.

Diet and Nutrition

Leopard Geckos are strict insectivores. Their diet should include a mix of live feeder insects such as crickets, dubia roaches, mealworms, and black soldier fly larvae. Superworms can be offered occasionally but not daily. Waxworms, butterworms, and hornworms are high-fat treats and should only be given rarely.

Always gut-load your insects for at least 24 hours with leafy greens, vegetables, or commercial cricket diets. Dust feeders with calcium plus D3 at every feeding and a reptile multivitamin once or twice a week. A small dish of plain calcium can also be kept in the enclosure at all times.

Fresh, dechlorinated water should always be available in a shallow bowl and changed daily.

Handling and Temperament

Leopard Geckos are naturally calm and often enjoy gentle interaction once they’re comfortable. Give a new gecko at least one to two weeks to settle in before handling. When you do start, scoop from below instead of grabbing from above, as that can startle them. Support their whole body and let them move between your hands. Avoid handling right after meals or during shedding. Always wash your hands before and after handling. 

Health and Monitoring

A healthy gecko will have bright eyes, a thick tail, smooth skin, and good appetite. Watch for weight loss, lethargy, stuck sheds, or abnormal stools. Parasites, metabolic bone disease, and impaction are the most common issues seen in geckos kept incorrectly. A reptile vet checkup once a year is always a good idea.

Breeding

Breeding Leopard Geckos requires planning and responsibility. Only healthy, mature geckos (over 18 months and in good weight) should be paired. Introduce the male to the female’s enclosure rather than the other way around, and watch closely for aggressive behavior during introductions. Breeding pairs should not live together permanently — remove the male after mating.

Females that have been bred will need a lay box filled with moist substrate like vermiculite, sphagnum moss, or coconut fiber. They usually lay two eggs per clutch every few weeks during the season. Remove the eggs carefully and place them in an incubator at around 80–88°F. Lower temperatures tend to produce females, while higher ones produce males.

Incubation takes roughly 40–60 days, depending on temperature. Once hatchlings emerge, they can be kept in small tubs or enclosures lined with paper towels. Feed them small crickets or mealworms daily and provide a calcium dish. Always separate hatchlings from adults to prevent injuries.

Breeding should only be done with high-quality, healthy animals and a clear goal — whether that’s improving genetics, working with specific morphs, or preserving strong bloodlines. Avoid breeding related animals and always have homes lined up for the offspring before pairing. Geckos with unknown genetics or those bought from pet stores should not be bred. 

Enclosures cont...Why Each Setup Works.

• Rack systems are practical and stress-free for breeders or those keeping multiple animals.

• Traditional terrariums offer a great balance of control, enrichment, and visibility for a pet gecko.

• Bioactive enclosures create a miniature ecosystem that supports digging, exploring, and natural humidity cycles while reducing long-term cleaning.

All three methods can work beautifully if temperatures, humidity, and nutrition are managed correctly.

-SAN DIEGO REPTILE